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You land in Tehran. You walk out of the airport into a country that your government tells you not to visit, that your media portrays as hostile, and whose leaders regularly chant "Death to America" on television. You're nervous. And within 30 minutes...
We're not going to sugarcoat this. The US State Department rates Iran as Level 4: Do Not Travel — its highest warning level, the same as active war zones like Syria, Somalia, and Yemen. That sounds terrifying. But the reasons for Iran's Level 4 ratin...