Taiwan is one of those destinations that people put off because they're not quite sure what it is — not fully China, not quite Japan, its own complex and fascinating thing. Then they go, and they can't stop talking about it. The food alone justifies the flight. Everything else is a bonus.
Taipei: Two Days of Sensory Overload
Taipei is one of the world's great cities for eating, walking, and getting happily lost. Start at Shilin Night Market — the largest in Taiwan, with over 500 stalls selling stinky tofu, oyster omelets, scallion pancakes, bubble tea, and grilled corn slathered in butter and soy. Night markets aren't tourist traps here; they're where Taiwanese people eat dinner.
During the day: Jiufen, the hillside gold-rush town an hour by bus from Taipei, is the model for the village in Miyazaki's Spirited Away (the director denies it, which almost no one believes). Red lanterns, tea houses in fog, steep stone alleys, and views of the Pacific — it's extraordinary.
Also in Taipei: Taipei 101 (still legitimately impressive), the National Palace Museum (holds the largest collection of Chinese imperial artifacts), and Daan Forest Park for a morning run.
Day 3: Taroko Gorge
Take the early morning train from Taipei to Hualien (2 hours on the limited express). Then head into Taroko National Park, one of the most dramatic gorges in Asia: marble canyon walls dropping hundreds of meters, turquoise river below, suspension bridges and tunnels built by Japanese engineers in the 1950s. Trails range from easy walkways to serious overnight hikes. Go for the day, or stay overnight in Hualien to get an early start.
Days 4–5: The High-Speed Rail South
Taiwan's High Speed Rail (HSR) connects Taipei to Kaohsiung in 90 minutes and is genuinely excellent — clean, punctual, and affordable. Use it to reach:
- Tainan: Taiwan's oldest city and undisputed food capital. Everything you thought was good in Taipei is better here. Beef noodle soup, milkfish congee, shrimp rolls, and century-old dessert shops.
- Sun Moon Lake: Taiwan's largest lake, ringed by mountains in the central highlands. The cycling path around the lake is world-class. Stay overnight to see the morning mist.
- Alishan: a mountain forest area of ancient cypress trees, narrow-gauge mountain railways, and surreal cloud-sea sunrises.
Day 6: Kaohsiung
Taiwan's southern port city is scrappy and likeable. Visit the Lotus Pond pagodas rising from a man-made lake (the dragon and tiger pagodas are gaudy and completely unforgettable), eat at the Liuhe Night Market, and watch the sunset from the Former British Consulate on Cijin Island.
Day 7: Fly Out
Kaohsiung International Airport is small and efficient. Or take the HSR back to Taipei Taoyuan Airport if your flight departs from there.
Practical Details
- No visa required for most Western passport holders (up to 90 days)
- Currency: New Taiwan Dollar. Very affordable by East Asian standards.
- EasyCard (IC transit card): buy at any MRT station, works on buses, trains, and even convenience stores
- Taiwan Mobile or Chunghwa Telecom SIM: cheap data, good coverage including in gorges
- 7-Elevens are everywhere and are genuinely useful: ATMs, hot food, printing, parcel pickup
- Safety: exceptionally safe. One of the lowest crime rates in Asia.
Taiwan rewards travelers who show up without a fixed idea of what they're going to find. The island has been quietly building one of Asia's best tourism experiences — it just hasn't been loud about it.