Wrocław (formerly the German city of Breslau) is one of Central Europe's most interesting cities — not just for its jaw-dropping Gothic and Renaissance market square, but for the layered, complicated history carved into every stone of this place that has been Polish, Bohemian, Habsburg Austrian, Prussian, and German at various points in its 1,000-year life. Today it is indisputably and vibrantly Polish — and one of the continent's most enjoyable city-break destinations.
The Rynek (Market Square)
Wrocław's Rynek is the crowning achievement of the city — a 213 × 178 metre Gothic square ringed by Renaissance and Baroque townhouses in every colour of the spectrum: ochre, terracotta, sage, cream, and deep red. The centrepiece is the Gothic Town Hall (Ratusz), one of the finest examples of Central European Gothic civil architecture, with an astronomical clock and a basement restaurant in its medieval cellars. Sit at one of the outdoor tables in summer — the afternoon light on the coloured facades is extraordinary.
The Gnomes
Wrocław has over 600 small bronze gnome figurines (krasnale) hidden across the city, each a few inches tall and each with a different occupation or activity — a fireman gnome, a photographer gnome, a sleeping gnome, a gnome riding an elephant. They began as anti-communist protest symbols in the 1980s (the Orange Alternative movement) and have become one of Wrocław's most beloved attractions. Children and adults alike spend afternoons hunting them. A map is available from the tourist office.
Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island)
The oldest part of Wrocław — a small island in the Oder River where Gothic St. John the Baptist Cathedral rises above a cluster of ecclesiastical buildings. The island still has gas lanterns lit by a lamplighter each evening, creating a remarkably atmospheric medieval street scene. Climb the cathedral towers at sunset for the finest view in the city.
Centennial Hall
An unexpected UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia), built in 1913 by German architect Max Berg. It was the largest reinforced concrete structure in the world at the time of its construction and remains a masterpiece of early Modernist engineering — a vast domed exhibition and events hall surrounded by a pergola garden.
Food and Beer
Wrocław's eating scene has exploded. The student population (the city has several universities and roughly 130,000 students) keeps prices competitive and quality high. For craft beer, head to the stretch of bars on Świdnicka Street and the area around Rynek. The covered Hala Targowa market is excellent for fresh produce, cheese, and prepared food at lunchtime.