Auschwitz-Birkenau — the network of Nazi German concentration and extermination camps near the Polish town of Oświęcim — was the site of the murder of approximately 1.1 million people, 90% of them Jewish, between 1940 and 1945. Visiting is a solemn and important act of remembrance. This guide covers the practical and emotional preparation for the experience.
The Two Main Sites
The complex consists of two main camps 3km apart:
- Auschwitz I — the original camp, established in 1940 in converted Polish army barracks. This is where the entrance gate with the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei ("Work Sets You Free") inscription stands. The main museum buildings and Block 11 (the "death block") are here. Walk-through exhibitions display confiscated belongings — 80,000 shoes, 3,800 suitcases, 2 tonnes of human hair. Plan 2–3 hours minimum.
- Auschwitz II–Birkenau — 3km away, this vastly larger site was built in 1941–42 as the primary extermination facility. Most of the 1.1 million victims died here, primarily in four large gas chamber and crematorium complexes (now ruined — destroyed by the SS as the Soviets advanced). The scale here — 300 barracks extending over 170 hectares — conveys something that photographs alone cannot. Walk along the main rail line to the platform where selections took place and into the ruins of the crematoria. Plan another 2 hours.
Booking Tickets
Since 2022 all visitors require advance booked entry — there is no walk-in access during peak hours. Book at the official website (auschwitz.org) well in advance, particularly April–October. A free time slot is available outside of main visiting hours (before 10am and after 3pm) but guided tours must be booked. The guided tour (3.5 hours, covering both camps) is strongly recommended for first-time visitors — the guides are exceptional and the historical context they provide is essential.
Getting There
From Kraków (75km): Direct buses run from Kraków's main bus station (MDA) to Oświęcim every 30–60 minutes. Many organised day tours depart from Kraków hotels and include transport. Allow a full day.
Practical Notes
- Dress appropriately — no shorts in the memorial buildings, no provocative clothing.
- Photography is permitted in most areas but is prohibited inside the gas chamber and certain exhibition rooms. Read the signs.
- Children under 14 are not recommended for the main museum exhibitions due to the graphic nature of some displays. The memorial management provides guidance for younger visitors.
- The site can be emotionally overwhelming. Take breaks. The café and rest areas are there for a reason.
- Before you go: watch the Lanzmann documentary Shoah (1985), read Primo Levi's If This Is a Man, or watch Spielberg's Schindler's List. Arriving with historical context makes the visit significantly more meaningful.