Bergen is Norway's second largest city and, for most visitors, its most immediately beautiful. Built on a narrow peninsula between the Byfjord and seven surrounding mountains, the city combines a compact medieval harbour core with an outdoor culture that bleeds into the surrounding landscape. It is rainy — Bergen averages 239 rainy days per year, one of the wettest cities in Europe — but locals embrace this with a cheerful fatalism ("There's no bad weather, only bad clothing" is practically an official motto).
Bergen is also the natural gateway to Norway's most famous fjords. Day trips or longer journeys to the Sognefjord, Hardangerfjord, and Nærøyfjord all begin here.
Bryggen — The Hanseatic Wharf
Bergen's defining landmark is Bryggen: the row of colourful wooden warehouses lining the eastern side of the harbour, built in a continuous tradition from the 14th century onwards. The buildings you see today are largely 18th-century reconstructions following the last major fire (Bergen burned many times), but the layout, ownership patterns, and construction techniques are faithful to the original Hanseatic period. UNESCO listed Bryggen as a World Heritage Site in 1979.
Behind the colourful front facades, Bryggen extends into a network of narrow alleyways where the working warehouses are stacked three and four storeys high. Today these contain craft shops, restaurants, galleries, and the Hanseatic Museum — a preserved merchant's house showing the living and trading conditions of Hanseatic merchants in Bergen.
The Seven Mountains and Fløibanen
Bergen is surrounded by seven mountains — de syv fjell — each accessible for hiking from the city itself. The most popular is Mount Fløyen (320m), reached via the Fløibanen funicular from the city centre in 8 minutes. At the top: panoramic views over Bergen, the fjord, and the surrounding islands, plus a restaurant, children's area, and network of hiking trails. You can walk down as well as up — the descent takes around 40 minutes on a well-marked trail.
Mount Ulriken (643m), the tallest of the seven, is reachable by cable car (Ulriksbanen) from the Haukeland area. The summit ridge offers one of the finest views in western Norway. Experienced hikers can traverse from Ulriken to Fløyen across the mountain ridge — a full-day walk with sections of scrambling.
Fisketorget — The Fish Market
The Fisketorget (Fish Market) on the harbour front has operated for centuries. Today it's part fresh-fish stall, part open-air restaurant, and part tourist attraction. Prices are high but you can eat freshly cooked king crab, shrimp, and various smoked fish directly on the waterfront. Go early in the morning for the best selection and most authentic atmosphere.
Edvard Grieg's Home — Troldhaugen
Norway's greatest composer, Edvard Grieg (1843–1907), was born in Bergen and lived at Troldhaugen (Villa of the Mountain Trolls) outside the city during the most productive years of his life. The villa, his composing hut on the lake, and the rock tomb where he and his wife Nina are buried are all open to visitors. Summer concerts in the on-site Troldsalen concert hall are performed from June to September.
Day Trips to the Fjords
Bergen's position makes it the best base for fjord day trips:
- Norway in a Nutshell: The classic combined train–mountain railway–fjord ferry–bus circuit through Myrdal, Flåm, and Nærøyfjord. Can be done as a day return from Bergen or with a night in Flåm.
- Hardangerfjord direct ferry: Summer express boats depart Bergen directly for Hardanger — apple orchard country with waterfalls and the Hardangervidda plateau at its head.
- Sognefjord express boat: Express passenger boats run Bergen–Flåm in approximately 5 hours along the Sognefjord.
Practical Bergen
Getting there: Bergen Airport Flesland is 20 minutes by light rail (Bybanen) from the city centre. Direct flights from most major European airports, particularly in summer. Train from Oslo (Bergen Railway, 7 hours) is an experience in itself.
Accommodation: Bergen is significantly cheaper than Oslo. A mid-range hotel runs NOK 900–1,500; there are several good hostels near the city centre.
Weather: Rain jackets are mandatory. In exchange for accepting the rain, Bergen offers extraordinary green landscapes and moody atmospheric light that photographers find exceptional.
Best time: June–August for fjord trips and longest daylight. September–October for autumn foliage and fewer crowds. December for Christmas atmosphere and possible Northern Lights from the surrounding mountains.