Moldova is a microstate tucked between Romania and Ukraine, rarely mentioned in travel conversations and frequently confused with other Eastern European countries. It also holds the world record for the largest wine cellar, hosts one of Europe's most liveable and overlooked capitals, and offers arguably the best value-for-money wine tourism experience on the continent.
Milestii Mici — The World's Largest Wine Cellar
Sixty kilometres of underground tunnels beneath a hill outside Chișinău form the Milestii Mici wine complex — the largest in the world by capacity (1.5 million bottles), according to the Guinness World Records. The tunnels were carved from limestone in the 1960s and today house a collection that includes bottles from every harvest since 1968. Visitors tour the cellars by car along illuminated tunnel "streets" named after grape varieties (Aligote Street, Muscat Avenue), stopping at tasting stations and viewing the racks of ageing bottles in temperature-stable caverns. The tasting packages are extraordinarily reasonable — a full flight of wines with food costs roughly €15–20 per person.
Cricova — For the James Bond Experience
Cricova, closer to Chișinău, is Moldova's second great underground winery and the more famous of the two internationally — partly because Yuri Gagarin famously got lost in its tunnels during a state visit. The Cricova cellars were discovered accidentally during limestone quarrying in the 1950s and now hold some 1.25 million bottles in 120 kilometres of tunnels. Unlike Milestii Mici's more rustic character, Cricova has invested in presentation: the tasting hall is grand, the collection includes a rare vintage section with bottles dating to the 19th century, and the guided tours are slick. This is where foreign heads of state come for their official wine cellaring.
Chișinău — A Soviet City Finding Its Feet
Chișinău (pronounced "kish-i-now") is one of those post-Soviet capitals that the travel media hasn't caught up with yet. The architecture is a chaotic mix of Stalinist boulevards, crumbling Art Nouveau facades, and brash new glass buildings. The restaurant scene has exploded in the last five years — Georgian, Armenian, Italian, and Moldovan cuisine sit alongside each other on the same block. The city's Central Market is a magnificent mess of produce, dried mushrooms, pickled vegetables, and elderly women selling bunches of herbs from plastic bags. Wine bars serving local natural wine by the glass for €1–3 are everywhere.
Practical Tips
Moldova uses the Moldovan leu (MDL). It is among the cheapest countries in Europe — a three-course dinner with wine typically costs €8–15 in Chișinău. Most Moldovans under 40 speak Romanian; Russian is also widely understood. The country is visa-free for EU, UK, and US passport holders. Both Cricova and Milestii Mici require advance booking for cellar tours; arrange them through your accommodation or directly via their websites.