Croatia's Adriatic coastline stretches for 1,800 kilometres and includes over 1,200 islands, 47 of which are permanently inhabited. The Dalmatian section — roughly from Split in the north to Dubrovnik in the south — is arguably the finest stretch of Mediterranean coastline west of Greece. It is also, if approached without a plan, expensive. Here's the strategic guide.
Split — Your Best Base
Split is the beating heart of coastal Croatia and a far better base than Dubrovnik for exploring the region. The old town is built inside the walls of Diocletian's Palace — a 4th-century Roman Emperor's retirement complex that was so large an entire medieval town eventually grew up inside it. Today the palace walls contain apartment buildings, bars, restaurants, and churches, still in continuous use 1,700 years later. The UNESCO-listed old town is walkable in an afternoon; the surrounding Varoš neighbourhood offers local restaurants, morning markets, and real Dalmatian life away from the tourist track.
The Islands: How to Choose
The islands are connected by ferry from Split harbour. Three dominate conversation:
- Brač — closest to Split, famous for the Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape) beach, a long shingle spit that changes shape with the current. Relatively affordable; popular with families and windsurfers.
- Hvar — the glitzy one. Beautiful lavender-covered hills, a gorgeous old town, excellent restaurants, and a yacht-party scene that has made it famous — and expensive. Worth one or two nights; don't budget for a week.
- Korčula — typically described as Hvar's quieter, cheaper, more authentic sibling. It's home to a beautiful walled old town built on a small peninsula, a local wine industry (the grk grape is unique to the sandy soils near Lumbarda), and a persistent local tradition that Marco Polo was born here.
Dubrovnik — Manage the Crowds
Dubrovnik is magnificent and it knows it. The completely intact medieval city wall, the marble-paved Stradun, the baroque churches and Venetian palaces, the turquoise Adriatic below the fortifications — it is genuinely one of the most beautiful old towns in Europe. It is also, in July and August, catastrophically overcrowded. Go in May, June, September, or October. Stay inside the old town walls (expensive) or in the nearby suburb of Lapad (10 minutes by bus, much cheaper). The wall walk is best done at 7am, before the cruise ships disgorge.
Getting Around
The Jadrolinija ferry network connects all the main islands with Split and Dubrovnik. Ferries are priced reasonably; the fast catamarans are more expensive but cut travel times significantly in summer. Booking online in advance in July–August is essential for car ferries.